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MORE DRAWING TUTORIALS:

How to draw a rose
How to draw a dragon
How to draw a horse
NEW: How to draw a wolf
NEW: How to draw a betta fish
How to draw animals from pears
How to draw an owl
How to draw a cat
How to draw animals from alphabets
How to draw a frog
How to draw a parrot
How to draw a bird
How to draw a butterfly
How to draw a sheep
How to draw a pig
How to draw a swan
How to draw a penguin
How to draw a peacock
How to draw a lion
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How to draw a cow
How to draw a dachshund
How to draw a seahorse
How to draw a tiger
How to draw a kitten
How to draw a monkey
How to draw a unicorn
How to draw a phoenix

How to draw a deer
How to draw a squirrel
How to draw a crocodile
How to draw a dinosaur
How to draw a whale
How to draw a duck
How to draw a giraffe
How to draw a snail
How to draw a koala
How to draw an angelfish
How to draw an elephant
How to draw a griffin
How to draw a walrus
How to draw a cocker spaniel
How to draw a poodle
How to draw a donkey
How to draw a chicken
How to draw a rooster
How to draw a porcupine
How to draw a kangaroo
How to draw a bear
How to draw a mouse
How to draw an octopus
How to draw a turkey
How to draw a goat
How to draw a camel
How to draw a hippo
How to draw a possum
How to draw a rhino
How to draw a centaur





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Learn to Draw > Copper engraving

A copper plate, like every printing block, can give only a limited number of prints, perhaps several hundred, even a thousand. The surface of the plate gradually wears away and the drawing gets fainter and fainter. For this reason the first prints are always considered the best. Experienced etchers used to make them recognizable by using a plate large enough to leave a band at the bottom.

Sometimes inscriptions or signatures were engraved in these bands, but at the same time they scratched a soft drawing into the already etched plate with the needle (a leaf pattern, an animal, or some sort of emblem). This "drypoint" came out only in the first dozen copies or so, after which it vanished.

In the same way, whole plates can be worked in drypoint. No acid is used, and generally the prints are very faint, but if the scratching is done very forcefully the edges of the scorings stand up in a sort of fringed ridge. This makes the ink spread into a rather smudged line, as though the line had been drawn with a sharp pen on damp paper, making it blurred. Much experience is needed to know beforehand what the effect will be.





While etching and drypoint allow a fluid, free hand in drawing, as when using pen or pencil, the graving tool required for copper engraving has to be pushed with a strong pressure. The graver is sharpened into a point, with angular facets. The lines are not bitten into the metal with acid but cut directly into the surface with the graver. The line is made broader by pressing the tool deeper into the metal, and clear modulations in the thickness of the line are possible.

It requires great skill to handle the tool correctly, and classical copper engraving has developed as an austere technique, demanding that the lines be drawn strictly parallel, whether they run straight or, corresponding to the perspective of the curves, are bent. Swelling of the stroke thus emphasizes shading. A dark area is best rendered by cross hatching.

The graving tool always leaves ridges, which have to be removed with a scraper to make a clear print. An incompetent engraving looks atrocious; the craft must be systematically studied, or left alone. This, however, is not the reason that there are so few engravers who can rank as artists. The stylization necessary to contain a free drawing in such precise lines has long since ceased to appeal to the taste of the times; yet it could be made to reveal some new and attractive sides.

Steel engraving is done in the same way as copper, except that a steel plate is used, which is engraved before it is tempered by heating and dipping in water. It gives many more prints than a copper plate, but steel cannot be kept for very long because it is almost impossible to prevent its developing patches of rust, which sooner or later ruin the whole plate.

Next: Printing techniques concluded

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